Archive for the ‘Snowdonia’ Category

Judgement day in Porthmadog

Sunday, October 16th, 2011
Porthmadog Station

Porthmadog Station

Ever been hit behind the ear with a sock of wet sand? Let me tell you about what happened to me yesterday. North Wales weather gave us a bonus warm and sunny weekend, perfect for me to take my 3 year-old grandson Logan to the Ffestiniog Railway Vintage celebration as Logan loves trains -  only second to tractors. As this blog is about honesty, I now have to confess that I was indulging my own interest with Logan as my handy excuse.

Headmaster on the bridgeAs we walked across Pont Britannia at the estuary of the Glaslyn River, we saw 30 or 40 people with cameras and tripods ready to photograph a vintage steam train hauling  a train of slate wagons across the road, along the bridge and up towards Aberglaslyn, protected by the brand new level crossing. Recalling those glory days of the slate industry, I became part of a most odd group. One man was in headmaster’s robes complete with mortar board, another had a full morning suit with top hat, a couple even had genuine train spotter anoraks and all carried cameras, notebooks and a specially produced Working Timetable to which I sneaked a look from a kind gent in a frock-coat. I decided not to buy one as a map of the human genome would have been easier to understand.

I felt quite smug as I surveyed this sad bunch that needed to get a life. That was when I felt the aforesaid sock of (fortunately metaphorical) wet sand hit me with a thud. What was I doing? This was a group of people indulging their hobby, having a great time with like-minded enthusiasts.

Logan at Tan y bwlchJust the previous day I had joined a group called Wipeout Homophobia on Facebook and have been involved for many years in campaigning against discrimination in any form. I am opposed to injustice, discrimination, hate and even laughing at people who are different. I was deeply ashamed of my attitude yesterday – ironic, because I have a bunch of esoteric interests which would lead parts of society to put me firmly into a ‘loser’ category. I read a quote today, ‘If only closed minds came with closed mouths’. I’m glad my mind was opened yesterday and maybe I’ve earned the right to open my mouth, even if it is just to apologise!

By the way, both Logan and his Taid (Welsh Grandpa) had a great time being train spotters for a day!

Frank Lloyd Wright: The Welsh Connection

Wednesday, July 13th, 2011

Album cover

'Bridge' album cover

To most Brits, Frank Lloyd Wright is just the name in the title of a song on the last and greatest album of Paul Simon and Art Garfunkel, Bridge Over Troubled Water. To me he’s one the world’s greatest architects. Incidentally, Art Garfunkel dared Paul Simon to write a song about Frank Lloyd Wright and this song was the answer to that dare. Art Garfunkel studied to be an architect because he thought his career as a musician would never be successful.

Taliesin, Wisconsin

Taliesin, Wright's summer home

I’ve visited his house in Oak Park, Chicago and seen many of his iconic buildings including the Guggenheim Museum in New York. I loved his summer home in Wisconsin which was called after the Welsh bard Taliesin. Wright’s parents, William Cary Wright and Anna Lloyd-Jones, originally named him Frank Lincoln Wright, which he later changed after they divorced in honour of his mother’s family, the Lloyd Joneses who had emigrated from Taliesin in mid-Wales. I recall visiting his grave in Wisconsin which was moved shortly afterwards to Arizona. Many people locally remembered Wright as famously eccentric and who never paid any of his bills!

Frank (left) and Clough

Frank (left) and Clough

Imagine my surprise when I discovered that Frank Lloyd Wright had a connection with another eccentric architect – Sir Bertram Clough Williams-Ellis, creator of the Portmeirion village near Porthmadog. Although born in England, Williams-Ellis’ family claimed direct descent from Owain Gwynedd, Prince of North Wales. Frank Lloyd Wright visited Wales in 1956 to receive an honorary doctorate from Bangor University. He stayed with the creator of Portmeirion, Sir Clough Williams Ellis, whose work in Portmeirion Wright admired greatly. Both men wanted to design buildings that lived in harmony with the natural landscape. On the day of the Bangor University degree ceremony the great man, without telling Williams-Ellis, ordered a taxi to take him from Portmeirion to Taliesin in search of his roots. Clough panicked and immediately dispatched a fast motorcycle to apprehend the car, so that his guest could be awarded his degree.

Portmeirion is a unique place – used for many tv and film locations and is set in wonderful scenery in the Mawddach Estuary. I shall enjoy it so much more now I know of its connection with one of my heroes.

Slate Quarry Lockouts, the Communards of Paris, the Trail of Tears and News International Corporation

Friday, July 8th, 2011

Penrhyn quarry choir during the strike

Penrhyn quarry choir during the strike

A couple of days ago I visited the Llechwedd Slate Caverns in Blaenau Ffestiniog. Llechwedd was formerly the second largest slate quarry in the world, with over 25 miles of tunnels at a depth of up to 900 feet below ground and has now been turned into a heritage attraction. On a tour the excellent young guide answered questions knowledgeably and with enthusiasm. I asked him after he mentioned the coming of the Trades Union to the quarry if it had been a difficult process like at Dinorwig and Penrhyn Quarries where there had been long lockouts by the owners with the intention of resisting unionisation – a subject I am currently researching.

No traitors in this house!

No traitors in this house! Window sign in Bethesda in houses where strikers refused to go back

It turned out Llechwedd too had experienced intransigence and opposition resulting in a lockout for some months. The lockout at Dinorwig lasted two years and that at Penrhyn in 1903 even longer. Pause to consider; these men and boys were not being greedy, they worked in hard, dangerous, poorly paid conditions and out of meagre wages they bought their own tools, candles and blasting powder. They wanted safer conditions and a fair wage.

In the summer of 1870, the French Government drew their country into a war with Prussia but the French were surrounded and defeated. In Paris however, the city’s masses had organized a National Guard and despite shortage of food, money was pooled to purchase cannons. In this move the wealthy saw a danger to themselves, no less than that posed by the Prussians. Their fear was that the masses were aroused to a revolutionary fervour and their guns could be swung toward the bourgeoisie (Government and middle classes) within the walls as easily as against the foe without.

On 18 March 1870 the Paris Commune was proclaimed. The Government withdrew with its troops to Versailles. Two months later, they attacked the Communards as they had become known, aided by Prussian officers, in May 1970 and butchered everyone. The Communards, worn and exhausted, were falling back before an advance that spared neither woman nor child. Thousands were killed where they stood; the old and sick were herded to open places to be shot and each detachment of the maddened Versailles troops was an executioner’s gang, summarily killing every suspected sympathizer. The Commune was being drowned in its own blood. In that one week 40,000 workers were slaughtered and the wealthy, many of whom had now returned, stood on the curbs to watch the ghastly parade and congratulate themselves on their victory.

Trail of Tears

The Trail of Tears

Other examples of man’s greed resulting in inhumanity to fellow-man are numerous. In 1838 and 1839, as part of Andrew Jackson’s Indian removal policy, the Cherokee nation was forced to give up its fertile and productive lands east of the Mississippi River and to migrate to an area in present-day Oklahoma. The Cherokee people called this journey the “Trail of Tears,” because of its devastating effects. The migrants faced hunger, disease, and exhaustion on the forced march. Over 4,000 out of 15,000 of the Cherokees died. All because the white man wanted their rich productive lands.

The events in these three countries have two common themes. They all affected communities that were poor, seeking to better themselves, were committed to each other and had no means of defending themselves. The second theme was they were all exploited and crushed by powerful wealthy people without morality whose greed was without bounds.

News International Corporation is in exactly the same mould. They are ruthless, they crush anyone who opposes them and all for the aim of making more money at any cost. Unsurprisingly, they have a non-union policy. They committed a speechlessly cynical act yesterday in closing the News of the World, sacking their 200 employees – men and women with families, mortgages and now, unemployment. All to detract from their plans to take full control of BSkyB and enlarge the Murdoch empire. Well, the Bible says ‘What you sew, you reap’ – and for my atheist friends ‘Chickens come home to roost!’. I hope it happens sooner rather than later.